Day 3 (cont): Apsaras and Artisans

Today we are here

After lunch we made a short (30 minute) drive from Siem Reap to Tonle Sap, literally 'Great Lake' that, by the end of the rainy season, occupies a seventh of Cambodia's land mass.  Tonle Sap is home to an ingenious but poor community living in a floating village and we took a boat trip to see the houseboats up close.  My reaction was both wonder (just imagine dealing with a toddler for example) and horror (the 'out-houses' at the end of the boat empty straight into the lake, in which they fish, swim, play, wash etc.).  The children came to beg, bringing weird attractions for us to see in return for a dollar.  Ian paid his due for the priceless photo below, but I thought I'd beat the fellow who would be pocketing the money by giving these cute girls a lollipop each that I'd brought from home.  Louise later saw a man sucking a lollipop, so he took that too.       

Wun dowar

Houseboat

Fisherman

On the way back to the hotel we dropped into Angkor d'Artisans, a government supported arts and crafts centre producing silver plating, silk weaving and printing, wood and stone carving.  It's a training centre for young Cambodians, including many disabled workers, and promotes the use of local products and traditional skills.  We were given an escorted tour around the site, finishing at the shop that helps to market the finished goods - a brilliant place to buy holiday gifts and souvenirs.    

Exhibition of photos at the National Museum

In the evening we went to the Koulen II Restaurant Buffet and Apsara Dances.  The buffet was a little rough and ready but the stylish dancing comes from a custom that goes back 1000 years.  Apsaras, which is Sanskrit for celestial dancers, were the Kings' messengers to the Gods and well regarded in the royal court - go Girl Power! The dancers wear silk and velvet costumes and move with graceful gestures of the arms and hands, in stark contrast to the bump and grind of popular Western dance.  The accompanying music is quite different too, featuring xylophones, gongs, and a Khmer version of the bagpipes.  I don't think Ian and Richard acclimatised to this alternative art form but Louise and I thought the dancing was delightful.  Sadly the large audience was unruly.  A couple on the next table conducted a domestic during the hour's performance, a whole tour-group of youngsters left half way through and there was an unseemly surge onto the stage at the end when spectators were allowed to be photographed with the stunning aspsaras, viz. gorgeous girls.  In other circles the performances are taken very seriously and I'd urge you to watch the 5 minute video from the official Youtube channel for UNESCO about the Royal Ballet of Cambodia.  Check out the bit that shows you how they get to do those strange things with their hands. 

Back at base we lounged on the sofas in the al-fresco restaurant, contemplating the events of the day over a nightcap.  Can't believe I've been in this hotel two nights and it already feels like home!

MARKS OUTTA 10

Louise: The dancing lived up to my expectations and it was my fave activity of the day.  Today was not quite as good as yesterday, because Angkor Wat was brilliant, so I give it 7/10

Ian:  The market was my fave because it was real people doing real things.  Other highlights: really enjoyed the whole hotel/cookery experience. 8/10


Rich: My fave was cooking.  I haven't done this before and I may well have a go at home.  Other highlights: the Angkor Village hotel in general (ambiance etc.) Low light: the buffet and audience at the dancing event.  Never mind low light, the bloke jumping up on the stage was a low life.  8/10


Jackie:  Highlight was the cooking, closely followed by the market.  My lowlife was the bloke pinching the little girls' lollipop.  Honestly...    7/10