Day 13/14: The journey's end

We had buried ourselves so far into the forests of the Cardamom Mountains that it took 36 hours, door to door, to travel home.  We went by boat, minibus, plane, train (well, monorail at Singapore airport), another plane, and car.

And IT'S ALL OVER NOW

TOP 3 MAGIC MOMENTS?

For Louise:

1. The walk up to Angkor Wat and seeing it for the first time in all it's majesty
2. Lunch at Knai Bang Chat
3. Siem Reep Night Market

For Ian:

1. Visit to the food market in Siem Reap
2. Strangler trees at Ta Prohm
3. Moped Madness

For Richard:

1. Cambodian Cooking course
2. The food market
3. Angkor Wat

For Jackie:

1. Angkor Wat
2. Kayak and Sunset Cruise
3. Cyclo Tour along the Meekong in Phnom Penh

FAVOURITE PHOTO

The end (until the next trip). 

  

Day 12: The sun sets on Cambodia

Designed for washing in minimum water

4 Rivers is billed as an eco lodge, with waste kept to a minimum and local people partners in the venture.  We were sad to hear that the energy is no longer solar powered as the massive (Chinese) batteries are not working.  Richard and Ian gave the manager a hard time on this topic but I think he held his own.  He explained that his main eco credential is that he could pack up the whole resort in 2 days and it would be as though it had never been there.  I was happy to do my bit to promote eco tourism - hey, the shower was even quite fun!  Louise and Ian discussed their bug problem with him and luckily that was resolved. 

The main attraction is nature's beauty - whether that is fishing off the jetty, out on a boat or trekking into the jungle.  Richard and Louise would have liked to do the spiders and snakes walk (ugh) but it has to be done very early morning and we didn't have any of those left.

A perfect moment of simple pleasure

Louise and I decided to chance our luck in a kayak and one of the staff recommended we both go in one boat, which not only gave us maximum rowing effort but afforded a sweet bonding moment. I was dead worried that I would topple the thing over as I boarded but all was well.  We circumnavigated the island in the river opposite the resort and by the time we reached the far side we were adrift from civilisation and our normal reality.  It was a thrilling moment when I simply felt in awe of our planet.  The fine weather lasted long enough for us to get safely back to shore before the drama of another tropical storm.  Louise swam home whilst the heavens opened.  Just imagine how I felt being trapped in the restaurant tent, with only Ian and the bar for company.

Richard finds a mate for the sunset cruise

We booked a sunset cruise along River Tatai. A simple boat, warm ocean breeze, a private tour just for us, two delightful local lads and a bottle of wine - a recipe for paradise. We got the chance to take a close look at the lush green forest and the unspoilt coastal mangroves.  Richard and his new friend chat away happily about how everyone starved during the days of the the Khmer Rouge and yes, they did eat the beating heart of a just dead cobra.  And anything else they could possibly find.We dropped anchor at a small sandbank and prepared for sunset. Wine was carried ashore and this is the moment, as specified in the itinerary, when 'you can snuggle up with your loved one for a romantic moment'. So, Richard goes off for a fag and finds an otter, which Ian is keen to photograph. Oh well, Louise can be my loved one then. 

The captain's table

I'm trying to do a Joanna Lumley

 

Another Moment with Louise

The sun sets on our tour of Cambodia

MARKS OUTTA TEN

Ian:  Best bits were the Sunset Cruise and nice staff.  Seeing Richard 'flying' (as per Titanic) with the cabin boy was an interesting moment.  Bad bit: having to book airline seats to go home, which was bad enough, but on a 2 inch screen using very narrow bandwidth (but I did it).  7/10

Louise:  Best Bits: Kayaking and the Sunset Cruise.  Swimming in the storm was exciting.  8/10

Richard: Sunset Cruise and Thunderstorm was the best. 8/10

Jackie:  Kayaking was brilliant and the Sunset Cruise was the most fitting finale.  9/10

  

Day 11: Floating on the Tatai River

Today we are travelling from Kep to Koh Kong

The idea was to make the latter part of our holiday restful and relaxing with a bit more posh than packing.  When Silk Steps put forward a couple of options to round off our tour we were flummoxed.  We liked them both and just couldn't bare to leave one out!  So, rather than chilling out in Kep for four days, this morning we were early again, packed, saying farewell to our indulgences and moving on to a second, relaxing location. Twisted bit of logic, I think, but hey ho. 

Beware!

We travelled from the Vietnamese border to the Thai border through some of the most scenic countryside we had seen so far.  At first we took the main route from Kep to Kampong Som (Sihhanoukville), hugging the coast on our left, with the Elephant Mountains on our right.  Then we veered off through miles and miles of lush wilderness in Boutum Sakor National Park. This area belongs to nature and road signs take on an exciting dimension.  Sadly we didn't see any elephants, but an impressive sized lizard took a casual walk across the road.


My right of way, I think

This way madam

Our driver parked up about 20 miles short of Koh Kong, where we, and all our luggage embarked by boat for the last 30 minutes of our journey.  Boy, are we deep in the jungle and off the main drag at this point. I am just beginning to think the last leg of our journey was a big mistake when 4 Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge comes into view and I think, maybe this is going to be worth the journey after all.

Our resort comprises 16 tents and a restaurant

Our final destination is described on the website as an 'environmentally friendly resort that captures the imagination while offering the luxury and high-end facilities of a four-star boutique resort'. Our tented villas bob nonchalantly on the Tatai river: spacious, fully-functional, luxurious and the most innovative of all our resorts in Cambodia.  This is pure, unadulterated poshpacking! Our tents are next door to each other and Louise and I enjoy swimming between the two: I read later that Siamese Crocodiles, once thought to be extinct, have been seen in the river! 

Louise relaxes on her floating patio

A peek inside the pod 

Another position for Richard and Kindle

MARKS OUTTA TEN

Ian - no real high points but arrival by boat after the journey was great.  There are significant low points: the millions of flies in our tent, it's too hot and the drains smell.  6/10

Louise: highlights were the elephant signs and swimming in the river.  Lowlights are the bugs in our tent. 7/10

Rich: highlights?  None, sorry.  oh, I suppose seeing the tent for the first time was quite a thrill.  Lowlights: I don't like their menu (and there's no other choice). 6/10

Jackie:  I loved the swim in the river with the fish biting me!  I thought our arrival and seeing the tent was a big wow.   Lowlight: the 5 and a half hour journey.   7/10